1 1/4 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup dry white wine (preferably Riesling)
1/2 cup ice wine (preferably Canadian)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 lb Oka cheese or Port-Salut, rind removed and cheese coarsely grated (4 cups)
Special equipment: a fondue pot with long-handled forks

Whisk together cream, wines, and flour in a 2-quart heavy saucepan until smooth, then bring to a boil over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and silky, about 5 minutes. Add half of cheese and stir gently until almost melted, then add remaining cheese and cook, stirring, until cheese is melted and fondue is smooth, about 3 minutes. Serve in fondue pot.

Fondue can be made 1 day ahead. Put a piece of wax paper on surface and cool completely, then chill. Reheat over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until smooth.

Accompaniments: cubed baguette; apple and pear wedges

Makes 8 to 10 servings.